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← Back to 2018

Food and faith

by Clark Bledsoe
Charlotte Good, 25, eldest of ten children, moved to Morgan County from Ohio to teach grade school. Last year, she moved to Montgomery County to help Marlin Gerber open Walnut Leaf Country Market, a small grocery and deli shop in Camargo run by a group of Mennonite women. "With God's help, I can be cheerful and face the challenges of whatever comes," says Charlotte.

“I didn’t know bread and butter could be so good,” says Marie Darrell. She is not a butter lover, but she makes exception for the Amish butter and homemade sourdough bread at the Walnut Leaf Country Market in Camargo. The package of butter lists two ingredients: cream, salt.

Marlin Gerber, 41, husband and father of eight, owns the shop. “We cater to people that care about what they eat. They like to know where their stuff comes from,” he says. The family- run operation opened in an old Subway restaurant in August 2017. A year later its reputation for providing wholesome, high-quality products attracts patrons from the surrounding area.

Marlin and his family moved from Morgan County to Montgomery County two years ago to be involved in a new church community. “Doing some retail work has been my dream. I enjoy meeting people. That was the heart of store interest,” he says.

The fall deer harvest intensifies Marlin’s workload at his other small business, Appalachian Meats, a custom and commercial meat processor in West Liberty. When he does make it into the Camargo  shop, he loves to connect with customers and his staff. “Sometimes I like to do the simple things, like eating candy,” he says, laughing.

Despite Marlin’s seasonal absence from the store, he is happy. “I would say a thank you to the community for the response of our presence in Camargo. That might sound funny,” he says,”but I’ve a real appreciation for the little business we have there and the acceptance of it. I thank the good Lord, too.”

"We drive over just to visit the store and come back with three or four bags apiece," says Diane Williams of Estill County, who ordered this sandwich. She provided Walnut Leaf staff with handwritten sandwich instructions from her daughter, Dianna, who is disabled. The cheese was to be placed atop the meat, not the veggies.
Customer satisfaction and providing products the community asks for are at the heart of Walnut Leaf's operation. Here, Scotty Trent waits to pay Kayla Gilliam for his tomatoes while Charlotte Good dispenses a vanilla soft serve.
Geneva Gerber, 13, helps out at her father's market after class at the local Mennonite school. Though she recently began learning the cash register, every few days the mums' soil dries out. "I really like working with the flowers and doing the outside stuff," the eighth grader says.
Since Walnut Leaf offers quite a lot of bulk dry goods, there is a lot of prep work to be done by way of sorting, bagging, weighing and pricing. With a history of working in bulk grocery stores, Charlotte manages the stock through phone orders and paper catalogs.
"I usually go for the honey on-the-bone ham, but today I'm trying the black forest," says Todd Baker, picking up the day's lunch. He also places an order for 45 subs with Charlotte Good. He's booster treasurer for the Montgomery County football team and provides the Friday pregame meal.
Since the building used to be a Subway restaurant, Geneva Gerber is unsure whether this small window was for a drive-thru access. Now she uses the window to feed a hose from the kitchen outside to water the flowers sold at Walnut Leaf.
Heart of Walnut Leaf is the kitchen. Besides sandwiches, customers rave about the beef sticks, peanut brittle, pimento cheese, even all-natural salves. On the banana bread, regular David Cooper calls it the "best in town." He says, "It's because of the people. Everybody loves this place. Everybody."
As an integral part-time worker, Geneva Gerber muscles with the day's trash. For her older sister, Angela, one challenge is "keeping up with everything. It's a lot to handle sometimes, but it goes pretty good."
Marlin reflects, "As I look at our little business, I want [the public] to see here's Christian people that love the Lord and their fellow men. And we desire to do a service to our fellow men in providing a quality product at an affordable price in an inspiring atmosphere. I don't know how better to say it. That's kind of our mission." Geneva Gerber waters flowers outside the store.

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