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← Back to 2014

Sowing heirlooms

by Ashton Songer
Bill and grandson, Brian, blow the chaff from recently shelled beans. This is one of the final steps of the seed-saving process. It's followed by weighing and packaging for sale.

“FALL GARDEN”

Seedlings wet behind the ears,

Others old and tough for their years,

twine around one another

on airy trellises

And produce nectar for the collector.

Pruned and unpruned alike,

Given favorable space and light,

grow

into many-hued personas

–Unlike the catalogue descriptions.

Tough-nuts-to-crack,

companion planted

With wilted rose buds,

cross pollinate

And yield eloquent rows of poetry.

– Bill Best

Row by row, he followed behind his mother, enthralled by the spectrum of colors he observed as he learned to pick beans and avoid stinging worms in his family’s garden plot in western North Carolina. This early fascination is a memory Bill Best, 78, has carried throughout his life as a grower and saver of seeds — and not just the plant variety, but of people.

Fast forward to October 2014, and it’s bean season for Bill, founder and director of Sustainable Mountain Agriculture Center. Day in and day out, Bill works alongside his grandson, Brian, 23, and two part-time employees picking beans to dry out, shell and package for selling and swapping. He is an heirloom-seed saver, intensively engaged and committed to the nearly year-round process of planting, growing, harvesting and preserving the genetic potential of tomatoes, squash and beans.

Over the years, Bill received advanced degrees, served as director of Berea College Alumni Center, taught college courses, coached swim teams, choreographed dance and aquatic productions, led Upward Bound and Torchlight programs and has written many poems, articles and books. Though often “pigeonholed” by his lifetime attachment to farming, Bill has certainly inherited a legacy of cultivation, conservation and preservation. Most of all he is a steward — of people, of the arts and of the earth.

“I think it’s something important for humanity,” Bill says. “So I’m doing what I can.”

Bill leans over a batch of beans in the drying room room of Sustainable Mountain Agriculture Center. No matter his vocations over the years, Bill has been involved in farming his entire life and is committed to fighting against the industrialization and commercialization of the American food supply.
Brian pulls bean poles from the ground at Sustainable Mountain Agriculture Center. "We're striking the set, as my daughter would say," said Bill. Next, they will prepare the fields for a cover crop of wheat.
Bill plays a hymn on the piano in his living room. Though never formally taught, he learned to play by ear from watching his also self-taught father and his sisters who took lessons for years. "It's fun for me," Bill says, when he has time apart from his seed-saving venture.
Bill Best sifts through a row of beans to pick before a frost destroys the pods. The pods will be allowed to dry in the multi-step process of saving seeds. This year, the Sustainable Mountain Agriculture Center grew 150 to 200 varieties of beans to save and sell online.
Bill (left) spreads freshly picked beans for drying in the greenhouse long tunnel. Helping him are his grandson, Brian, (center) and part-time employee Zack Wallace. After beans are picked and dried, they are placed into large, black trash bags to await shelling.
Bill holds a family photo of the Bests in 1969. From left are Irmgard, 28; Barbara, 4; David, 6; Bill, 34, and Michael, 2. Irmgard is the behind-the-scenes organizer for their seed-saving business at Sustainable Mountain Agriculture Center. Each of their children is a nod to their legacy of creativity, industry and agriculture. Barbara Toti directs theater arts for Gates County Schools in North Carolina. David, a woodworker and machinist and Brian's father, lives next door to his parents. Michael is an agricultural economist at Tennessee Technological University and may take over his family's seed-saving venture next year.
Chickens roaming around the Bill Best property explore a covered area. "Chickens are the best scavengers," says Bill. At times, the birds must be penned so they will not interfere with seed plants in various stages of development.
Zack Wallace, (from left) Brian Best and Brandon Bussell laugh at Bill's bean anecdote. "This is one of the best jobs I've had," says Brandon, 23, who has worked for Sustainable Mountain Agriculture Center for a few months. He says he hopes to be a part of the work again next year.
Brian and Bill pull large bits of chaff from a batch of fall beans before taking them to the blower. The grandson-grandfather duo often work alongside one another in the year-round seed saving process. "I've been hanging out with my grandpa nearly every day for the last 10 years," Brian says. "He's taught me a lot -- a whole lot -- probably more than anybody else has."

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